Watches Wednesday: Zenith's Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon
12 June 2019

Watches Wednesday: Zenith’s Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon

Zenith has reinterpreted the fusee and chain constant force tourbillon mechanism – a high complication attempted by just a three other manufactures (A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, and Ferdinand Berthoud) because of its complexity – housed in in their latest timepiece, the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon.

Zenith Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon Closeup

One look at the timepiece, and the first thing you’d notice is its bicolour finish and contrast in textures, with the satin-finished surface in black, while its polished sides are in a lighter grey rhodium tone ( black vs. grey, and matte vs polished), with blue pops of colour on the chains of the movement, as well as the blue rim on the winding crown. Oh, and it’s also the first time that a coloured chain, made up of 575 individually hand-assembled components, has ever been attempted on any wristwatch fusee and chain system. The tourbillon cage positioned at 6 o’clock, is an entirely new construction featuring an off-centred balance wheel that makes a full rotation every 60 seconds, is intentionally designed in the same bold blue hue to draw attention to its movement and technical prowess.

Powered by the manual-winding El Primero 4805 SK calibre, similar to that used in the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot that was introduced in 2015 during the Maison’s 150th Anniversary, this high complication timepiece comes in 2 Limited Edition versions: the DEFY Fusee Tourbillon in either carbon or platinum.

Zenith Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon Carbon Limited Edition

The DEFY Fusee Tourbillon in Carbon, limited to 50 pieces, comes with a carbon fibre case, crown, buckle head, and open dial, particularly its central skeletal element and surrounding flange ring. Since carbon fibre, is typically associated with motorsports, it’s finished off with a black rubber strap and Cordura” fabric effect and blue topstitching. Yep, the strap totally looks like fabric, doesn’t it?

Zenith Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon Platinum Limited Edition

The ultra exclusive DEFY Fusee Tourbillon in platinum, limited to just 10 piecescrafted entirely in platinum, comes with a strap that’s made of a black rubber core, but coated with black alligator leather for that touch of luxury. After all, everything is always in the details, and details are certainly something that watch connoisseurs and collectors, appreciate 😉


Images courtesy of Zenith