Dior Men's Summer 19 Runway & Bags Report
25 June 2018

Dior Men’s Summer 19 Runway & Bags Report

With Kim Jones as the newly appointed Creative Director, the Dior Men’s Summer 19 show was one of the most highly anticipated shows of the season. The seating setup and the runway were both circular, but with a smaller runway than I guess most of us were used to seeing. In the middle of the showspace, was a tall 10m floral KAWS “BFF” sculpture as its centrepiece, in a Dior suit, and holding “Bobby”, a doggie-shaped perfume bottle. This commissioned sculpture (photo above) is made up of peonies, roses, and moss, with over 70,000 flowers placed in pipettes with water. And outside the show space, there too, was a smaller KAWS floral sculpture

As you probably have noticed on the show invitation, the iconic Dior bee was also modernised into something more animated and “cartoonish”, with KAWS’s signature “X” eyes.  This logo has in turned been used for the jewellery in the collection, by Ambush designer Yoon Anh, the new accessories director for Dior Men.

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway KAWS Bee

Dior Mens Summer 19 Bee Keyfobs and Charms
A closer look at the keychains and bee motif
Pics via @emmanuelperrotin

For the Summer 19 collection, Jones drew inspiration from Monsieur Dior’s private life and creative output. As a dual tribute to the founder, his collection was a juxtaposition between the “reality” of Dior, and the “fantasy”. Jones played with textures and various degrees of opacities within an entire outfit, ranging from diaphanous shirts with stripes and the Dior Oblique motif worn under suit jackets, to tailored trousers that were sheer only from the knee downwards. The Dior suit was also given an update, with one lapel that was held down in place with a strip  from the inside of the opposite side, that was attached to a button, to overlapping the lapels and front of the jacket in such a way that the suit jacket was fastened with buttons that were positioned off-centre. Sportwear was also worked into the collection, with the use of windbreakers and rainwear.

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Looks

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Looks

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Looks

Floral motifs were also one of the key themes in the Summer 19 collection, and we see a lot of these against black or white, in the looks during the second-half of the runway show. As we know, Monsieur Dior had a love for flowers and nature, thus his garden in Granville. And just like a floral garden, the palette for the season was inspired by the founder’s Femmes-Fleurs drawn from his personal porcelain collection, with the shapes reassembled into contemporary patterns for prints and embroideries. Feather embroideries by Lemarié were overlaid with vinyl, which in turn produced an effect equivalent of the glaze on bone china. Since porcelain was a huge factor in this collection, Jones adopted Monsieur Dior’s love of the 18th century: blue, white, pale pink of his childhood home at Granville, light grey, which is imbued in the Maison’s DNA. A flash of yellow in the collection also reflects Jean Cocteau’s definition of Dior as “This agile genius of our times whose magical name contains Dieu (“god”) and/or (“gold”)”.

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Looks
Porcelain-inspired Toile de Jouy prints

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Looks \Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Looks

Jones also incorporated the iconic Saddle bag which we are seeing the return of, thanks to women’s Creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and brought it over to the men’s collection in a big way. We saw the saddle in crossbody-style, the saddle pocket on backpacks, as belt bags, as well as a miniature saddle bag that could be used as a key fob or charm, which could also dangle off your belt loops on trousers. The ‘archive’ leather jackets, too, were given saddle-shaped pockets. The Dior Cannage, also previously specific to womenswear, was also laser-cut as motifs onto leather, and the Dior Oblique jacquard came in new tricolour variations.

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Bags Saddle

Dior Men's Summer 19 Saddle backpack Crossbody Bag

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Bags

Dior Mens Summer19 Runway Bags

The Verdict: Knowing what Jones had previously done during his tenure at Louis Vuitton, I was very surprised to see this “softer” approach that he took with this collection that is totally in line with the Maison’s core values, and what it symbolises, as a luxury fashion house. I had nothing but major love for the collection as a whole, but what I loved the most, was his incorporation of the Cannage motif and the Saddle bag into the men’s collection. By doing this, these iconic elements and House Codes are now threaded throughout both the men’s and women’s collections, instead of having them as dichotomised standalones. They are now a unified whole, and I can certainly see why Dior has now done away with “Dior Homme” and instead renamed it simply, as “Dior Men”.

If you missed the show live, watch it in full right here via the on-demand video service.

 

Images courtesy of Dior