FENDI Haute Couture Fall/Winter 18 Runway & Bags Report
8 July 2018

FENDI Haute Couture Fall/Winter 18 Runway & Bags Report

While other brands referred to their couture collections as haute couture, FENDI always preferred the term haute fourrure (translation:”fur” in French). Given that fur is such a big part of the House’s DNA, it’s no surprise that it chose to do this. However, with several brands pledging to go fur-free – Gucci and Burberry are two of the latest to do this – it’s no surprise that FENDI has dropped the fourrure and replaced that with couture for their latest Fall/Winter 18 show.

Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Runway Looks

Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Runway Looks

In line with this strategic move, the brand also made it a point to design its non-fur materials, to resemble  appearance of fur, when it actually isn’t. Materials such as organza and chiffon were frayed and fringed in such a way, that it became trompe l’oeil surfaces that gave of the impression as if it could be intarsia-knitted fur. Similarly, a play of textures were also evident in the sintesi mosaics and gheronato chevrons, which created featherweight shells of tufted cashmere, shaved mink, and shearling. Or were they really? Where does the illusion end and the actual fur begin? Well, FENDI sure kept us all guessing, and the fact that they could do this, is certainly a testament to their savoir-faire.

Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Runway Looks

Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Runway Looks

Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Runway Looks

Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Runway Looks

Whether it was real fur or not, the FW18 haute couture collection exuded opulence and aristocracy, where ballerina ballgowns and opera coats abound, in swirls of rosettes, lace, and hand-painted embroidery, while suits re trimmed in ermine or encrusted with sequins. Mongolian lamb, marabou and tulle were all fused harmoniously in a single dress. In fact, all of this was inspired by the Neoclacissist era, so there were also plenty of silhouettes with caged latticework, that showcased a juxtaposition between the opaque and the sheer.

Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Bags

Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Bags \Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Bags \Fendi Haute Couture FW18 Shoes Lampshade Heels

The jewelled minaudières and  bodices on some of the looks were also embossed in glossy layers of thermoplastic, made possible by high-frequency printing. The shoes, too, were given this same treatment, and came with a lampshade heel stacked with maple, perspex and horn. The result: surfaces that resembled marble, malachite and mother-of-pearl, thus adhering to the surprise element that the entire collection is founded upon: the impossibility of distinguishing between what’s real vs. what isn’t. What a postmodern approach to haute couture this was. Kudos, Silvia.

 

Images courtesy of FENDI