#PFW: Louis Vuitton's Spring/Summer 2014 Runway Review - The End of an Era!
3 October 2013

#PFW: Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2014 Runway Review – The End of an Era!

With the exterior of Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2014 show set all dolled up in pretty pastel pink and French maids with feather dusters dusting away, we were expecting that to be an indication to a sweet Spring/Summer 2014 collection with a pastel palette of sorts. Boy, did we stop short when we entered the show space. Not only because it was Louis Vuitton’s most magnificent show set to date, but everything was black. Well, okay, perhaps black was the first thing everyone noticed. And then we realised that the SS14 show set was a combination of “Greatest Hits” featuring Vuitton’s most spectacular show sets: the hotel room corridors from Fall/Winter 2013, the twin escalators from Spring/Summer 2013, the clock from the Vuitton Express Fall/Winter 2012 show, the carousel from SS12, the wrought iron elevators from FW11, and the fountain from FW10. And yes, EVERYTHING was black.

From the show set itself, and the “best of” centrepieces from all of Vuitton’s women’s runway shows mentioned above, one could only wonder whether Marc Jacobs was actually bidding us (and the brand) farewell, and this Spring/Summer 2014 collection, to serve as his swan song (my tweet, pictured below, posted during the SS14 runway show:

Louis Vuitton later confirms that Marc was indeed leaving his creative helm at Louis Vuitton, a post he has held for the past 16 years, to focus on his namesake label and take it public, with an IPO to follow.

The models descended from the twin escalators, encircled the fountain, and made their way back in the elevators which led them into the hotel room corridor before heading backstage. Marc opened the show with Edie Campbell in a skin-coloured bodysuit with the Stephen Sprouse graffiti print. Then, as each look came down the runway, it was obvious that it was going to be an entirely black collection with enormous black feathered headdresses that were part-showgirl, part-Native American Indian.  Nina Garcia on her twitter, called it a “fashion funeral” which made sense, but to me, it seemed more like a macabre dance of death (or in this case, walk). I really can’t help but wonder, though, whether Marc Jacobs is going through a dark period in his own life – I mean, first it was his post-apocalyptic SS14 runway show for his own label at New York Fashion Week.

Edie Campbell with the opening look

In terms of bags that came down Louis Vuitton’s SS14 runway, it was all about the Classic Noe PM, which was either modified with embellishments, or with a chunky chain strap. I love the chain handle, but as for the embellishments, they aren’t my kinda thing.

Of course, Marc Jacobs received a standing ovation when he took his post show bow. Thunderous applause for is stellar creations for his 16 years at Vuitton. What an interesting and a sort of morbid, not to mention, dramatic, end to Fashion Month. With all that black, perhaps it’s Vuitton’s way of saying that they’re mourning the departure of Marc Jacobs from the brand. Whatever it is though, it is one of fashion’s greatest moments that will certainly will become a part of fashion history.

And now, bring on the game of designer musical chairs all over again. Who do you think will take over as womenswear Creative Director?

Images via Style.com