It’s the beginning of a new era at Dior, with the appointment of the first ever woman designer as Creative Director.  Maria Grazia Chiuri (formerly part of the Valentino duo) made her debut with the Maison’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection yesterday, and to mark this new beginning, comes a new show venue — previously held at the Tuileries Gardens, the Spring/Summer 2017 show was moved to the Museé Rodin.

The air was full of anticipation as attendees waited for the show to start. The show space was set up in a relatively simple fashion, with a U-shaped runway, without any of the botanical or futuristic fanfare that we were used to seeing at the Dior show spaces when Raf was in charge.

The runway show opened with a series of white looks, followed by black. It was then I guessed it was going to be a monochromatic palette, and then came the reds, and very light pink blush tones, which was very ballerina chic. The topknot on the models probably added to this look – but when they turned around, surprise, surprise, there were cornrow-style plaits at the back of their head which merged into a topknot that we saw from the front. Chiuri also mixed the ‘hard’ with the ‘soft’, pairing quilted leather motorcycle jackets, and belted vests (which was very straitjacket chic) with full tiered ruffle tulle skirts. There was also that unmistakable Valentino influence reflected mostly in the evening looks – the diaphanous dresses with tarot-like illustrated motifs, complete with some of Monsieur Dior’s lucky charms like the heart, and clover, which gave off an ethereal faerie-like quality.

The Opening Look: the top reminded me of a cross between Straitjacket Chic and Fencing attire

Making a Bold Statement

Tough vs. Delicate: When “hard” meets” soft”

Now… the bags!

For the bags, there was a simple work tote with a bee and ‘CD’ hot stamped onto the the top between the handles. There was also a tote with an envelope pocket that could double as your document bag, and on this one, she changed the look of the “CD” logo hardware, and brought back the ‘Dior’ monogram that we are already beginning to see on the current Fall/Winter 2016 collection’s Diorama satchel.  And then there was also a sturdy structured saddle-shaped bag (unmistakably part of Dior’s DNA from the collections of the late-1990s) with contrast stitching and DIOR emblazoned on the hardware of the flap, and here, she again changed up the fonts of the DIOR lettering. The small shoulder bag with chain strap that either said “Dior” or “J’ADIOR” (a play on the favoured Dior phrase “J’Adore”) came with the option of clutching it by slipping your had through the loop, and this was, in my opinion, influenced by one of her Valentino creations, namely, the Va-Va-Voom. The evening hard-cased minaudière borrowed motifs from tarot cards. What I loved about these evening bags, were the intricate CD clasp on top, made to look only like a rectangle, if you didn’t look closely enough. The fact that a thick detachable leather shoulder strap came with these enamel or intricately beaded arm candies, made for an interesting combination.

One thing’s for sure, this is a Dior(R)evolution that is undeniable. I would have loved to see more colour in the collection though, because well, I guess I got used to seeing that on Raf’s creations, and also because I have a massive love for colours (as though you didn’t already know this, heh =P ).

How do you find Chiuri’s collection for Dior?

P.S.: If you haven’t already watched the Spring/Summer 17 show LIVE, you can watch the FULL show via the on-demand video service right here

Images via Vogue Runway