#PFW: Dior Spring/Summer 18 Runway & Bags Report
28 September 2017

#PFW: Dior Spring/Summer 18 Runway & Bags Report

One of my all-time favourite models, Sasha Pivovarova opened Dior’s Spring/Summer 2018 show, and with that striped statement tee on which was written, “Why have there been no great women artists?”, this had probably set the tone for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection for Dior. And it was from this point on that it made sense, because the teaser videos that the Maison released prior to the show, featured a woman artist in the studio with closeups of brushstrokes in vibrant colours, like yellow, blue, green, and red, and Chiuri didn’t disappoint.

Though it was what a lot of us (myself included) would have considered an unexpected collection, Chiuri is really starting to grow into her own at Dior, and with each collection, has shed more and more of that Valentino aesthetic. Here, she really delivered that art-school vibe, not just with the designs, but also in the way the looks were styled. Those berets with the netted overlays, too contributed significantly, to bring this conceptualisation to life.

And while we’re on the subject of all things artsy-fartsy, Chiuri also incorporated the work of French-American artist, sculptor and filmmaker, Niki de Saint Phalle, most notably, her works such as Vive l’Amour (1990), le dragon (the one that looks like Godzilla), Traces, and another, a map of her Tarot Garden encased in a heart-shaped illustration. Speaking of Tarot Garden, or Il Giardino Dei Taiocchi, Saint Phalle’s sculpture garden based on Tarot cards, located in Tuscany, Italy, this is what the collage of the broken mirror shards on the walls of the cave-like entrance of the runway, on the floors, and the pillars of the Dior SS18 show space was modelled after. In fact, in the true essence of tribute to the artist, this bore a striking resemblance to the interior of  Saint Phalle’s “The Empress” Sculpture at the Tarot Garden.

These broken shards were also reflected in the collection, which were recreated with rectangular pailettes on the evening looks, as well as the handbags that were paired with these sparkly, dressier dresses.

Where the bags are concerned, we see the current silhouettes, that Chiuri has introduced since joining Dior, including the JADIOR, D-Fence, Dior Addict, Dio(r)evolution, and added yet more styles to the Dior Oblique collection, including an oversized tote. I love the new vibrant colours as well as the metallic leathers that these new classic silhouettes now come in, but my favourite of all, are the Dior Addict bags with the mesh with multicoloured crystal encrusted strap and logo on the clasp! The aforementioned oversized canvas tote, which also, like the bag straps, and accessories were made of a friendship bracelet motif version, which also came in actual bracelet form as well! And while we’re on the subject of bracelets, Chiuri also included rings and leather bracelets with Italian Murano glass – something which I’ve loved since I was young.

It isn’t easy for a designer threading (pardon the pun)  a single idea or concept throughout the entire collection in different ways, and yet and making it look seamless, but Chiuri has done just that. Kudos! Can’t wait to see what she has in store for us next season!

P.S. if you haven’t seen Dior’s SS18 runway show, click here to watch the FULL show via the on-demand video service!

Images via Vogue Runway