#LFW: Burberry Women's and Men's Spring/Summer 19 Runway & Bags Report
18 September 2018

#LFW: Burberry Women’s and Men’s Spring/Summer 19 Runway & Bags Report

With Burberry‘s new Chief Creative Officer, Riccardo Tisci, came a new show venue in Vauxhall, South West London, and with it, a multi-level square catwalk separated by grid-like screens. The Spring/Summer 19 collection, entitled Kingdom, is meant to be a celebration of the breadth of the British lifestyle and (sub)culture.

Burberry SS19 Show Runway Setup

From the rebelliousness of punk juxtaposed against the elegant evening wear, to lightweight trenches, animal prints, and quintessentially British classics like the T-strap Mary Janes which were reworked and given a flared flatform twist, Tisci has got it covered. Scarves were used as cords on pants, and interlaced to form fastenings on jackets, as well as details and handkerchief-like accents, architecturally-structured hip details, pussy bows àla YSL’s Le Smoking look were spotted on the new House check printed blouses, knife-pleated skirts and dresses, drop-waisted pants and skirts and trenches that were given an almost cummerbund-like thick-cinched elasticated waist belt, were all ways in which Tisci reinterpreted Burberry’s icons with a primarily neutral palette with pops of red. Eveningwear, on the other hand, consisted of seven long jersey dresses with a hint of sparkle, either embellished with sequins and beading or with drapes dusted in silver specks, but with everything entirely in black.

Burberry SS19 Women's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Women's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Women's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Women's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Women's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Women's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Women's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Women's Runway Riccardo Tisci Eveningwear

The bags, too, were just as varied, and came in the form of a top handle tote which would be great for work, box hard-cased rectangular clutches with “BURBERRY ENGLAND” emblazoned across them, accordion-style shoulder bags featuring the new logo, and gold chainlink double-tour belt bags, with a TB clasp. I have to say, I ain’t a fan of belt bags at all, but I really have to commend Tisci for making them look so polished, and elegant.

Burberry SS19 Bags Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Bags Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Bags Riccardo Tisci

When it came to the Menswear, we saw lots of suits – some were pinstriped, while others were slightly edgier, and “very Tisci” I’d say, with a shirting featuring a thick band across the chest which ties back to the cinched women’s trenches at the start of the show, designed with the sole purpose of holding down ties in place. Relaxed fit blazers were also accented with Tisci’s literal interpretation of a pocket square, symbolised by a contrast-coloured square shaped pocket with an “x” across it and a triangle protruding on top. Then came the more street-vibed section of the show, which featured graphic tees and oversized silhouettes, which we have become so familiar with during Tisci’s reign at Givenchy.

Burberry SS19 Men's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Men's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Burberry SS19 Men's Runway Riccardo Tisci

Accessories, were also given a utilitarian twist, with chain link umbrella holsters that enabled the wearer to carry the brolly (because British weather is always unpredictable, innit?) crossbody style, on his back. Oh, and “belts” were also fashioned out of bicycle chains and fastened with a padlock. Bags, on the other hand, came  in the form of briefcases, both in the regular style, and double-sided; small backpacks, too, were creatively appropriated as belt bags.

Burberry Mens SS19 Riccardo Tisci

What a breath of fresh air Tisci has breathed into Burberry. I’m seriously loving this new direction he’s taking the brand in, and I can’t wait to see what he has up his sleeve for the upcoming collections!

The first pieces from Tisci’s debut SS19 collection for Burberry is now available for purchase exclusively on Instagram, WeChat, and the 121 Regent street flagship boutique in London.

 

Note: if you missed the SS19 show LIVE, you can still watch the FULL show via the on-demand video service right here

 

Runway images courtesy of Burberry. Detail shots via Vogue Runway