Chanel Métiers d'Art Paris-Hamburg Pre-Fall 2018 Report
8 December 2017

Chanel Métiers d’Art Paris-Hamburg Pre-Fall 2018 Report

Karl Lagerfeld went back to his German hometown of Hamburg for Chanel‘s latest Métiers d’Art Paris-Hamburg Pre-Fall 2018 collection show, and chose a rather unconventional venue: the new Herzog DeMeuron Elbephilharmonic building, which overlooks the port of Hamburg. At first, I thought it was rather peculiar to hold a fashion show in a concert hall, and one with a live orchestra on stage at the same time, because this would mean that the audience would be viewing the collection from afar. I think that with any show that Karl stages for Chanel, we’ve come to expect grandiose show sets, because he just keeps coming up with something bolder and better every season, but this time around,  gone are the bells and whistles, and everything was executed with restraint. As for how the audience was going to get a closer look at the collection, Karl, in true Lagerfeld fashion, made it work by getting the models to walk around the auditorium.






With each model that emerged onto the stage, the nautical theme became more and more distinct. Perhaps a significant contributing element that tied the entire collection and this seafaring theme together, had to do with the tweed cap (and several variations of this) that references a ship captain’s hat was seen on every single model in the show. Then again, though, the male models with their sailor’s hornpipes as props, cable knits, the sailor collars, and evening dresses that were reminiscent of Breton stripe marinière shirts traditionally associated with sailors, too concretised Karl’s nautical fantasies and was brought to life by the artisans at the various Chanel-owned luxury artisan-specialist companies with couture-level craftsmanship: Lesage (embroidery of rhinestones, ribbons, beads, cabochons), Lemarie (feathers), Massaro (shoes), Lognon (experts at pleating and creating volume on flat fabrics), Desires (buttons and jewellery specialists), Montex (embroidery), Barrie (Scottish cashmere), and Maison Michel (millinery).

Images via Vogue Runway